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Japanese proficiency in English is
not high generally speaking especially when compared with people
from the Rest of the World. Partly as a result of being slow on
the uptake, and more commendably due to a desire to retain the importance
of their own language and not be forced into learning, to pander
to American political and economic strength. Whilst foreigners living
in their homes from home in Tokyo or Osaka, need never learn anything
beyond "arigato", people living in rural areas require
a much more inclusive knowledge to survive, especially in rare circumstances.
And so it was, I came to be thrown into such a situation while snowboarding
near my home in Shimane Prefecture, Western Japan.
After one wrong turn on the slope, followed by a triple somersault
with pique featuring all the grace of a "rikishi" being
hurled from the ring, I arrived in the local hospital. No problems
here, I thought; a quick splint on the leg, some sympathy from the
nurses and just enough time for a cup of "O'Cha" then
out and back to normal. Unfortunately, however, I had managed to
dislocate my hip, which was to require four weeks connected to a
traction device, unable to leave bed followed by a further couple
of months' rehabilitation. This would require patience, and not
being a Saint, I realized I was in for a hard time.
Fortunately, however, as with most tough situations, a few gems
were unearthed that made the whole thing a lot more endurable. These
were my nurses. Their genki-ness, curiosity and general good nature
made each day a lot brighter. Like hospitals all over the World
there was a good cross-section. The old matronly ones going about
their business of give, take, scrub, and feed in the same way as
millions like them. A group of subordinates underneath them, who
made it their duty to learn English at the same time as I was mastering
phrases like "stronger sleeping pills please" and "I'm
not keen on injections!"
Their fascination with my lanky frame dangling inches off the end
of the Japanese-size bed, my hatred of Miso Soup and clumsiness
with Japanese all provoked good natured banter and laughing. And
lastly the younger crowd, straight from nursing school most probably,
suffering from "Japanese schoolgirl to foreign man syndrome",
only surfacing occasionally with shy glances and stifled giggles
amongst themselves. My situation, however, would have been almost
the same anywhere in the world had it not been for a few anomalies
which reinforced just how ill-suited my body is to Japan.
Daily Trials
The aforementioned beds which cavernously swallowed up my elderly
Japanese neighbours, barely managed to contain my legs, that hung
like limp flowers off the bottom edge waiting to be pruned. This
pruning usually took the form of a misdirected passing wheelchair,
but was occasionally realized by the eccentric guy next to me, who
took great delight in crashing into my bed each morning, muttering
to himself. The general discomfort, pain and constant horizontal
position, all colluded to ensure restlessness during the night for
which I was given sleeping pills.
Unfortunately, these were also designed with the Japanese in mind,
and while the dosage successfully managed to send my big toe into
a deep sleep, the rest of my body usually twitched in a frustrating
inertia of sleep deprivation. They could increase the dosage they
said, but this would mean changing to tranquillisers. I couldn't
help imagining a crowd of nurses standing at the door of the ward
with a blowpipe and dart, like salivating bushmen stalking a herd
of elephants, so I stuck with the sleeping pills.
The rest of the stay went fairly uneventfully as my strength increased
and the discomfort subsided, but four months later I am still waiting
for Rip-Van-Toe to awaken. Nevertheless, I was beginning to feel
like a caged animal, something which bizarrely added to the experience
in purely positive ways. I was the daily exhibit for my fellow "hip-cripples"
in the ward, lying helplessly as they prodded, muttered and contemplated
my situation.
All good-natured though, and I was eventually able to persuade
them that Scotland isn't just cold with lots of sheep. I couldn't
help but compare them with the numerous Americans I've met who have
commented, "Scotland, that's just outside London isn't it?"
And the World's shrinking and becoming internationalized is it?
Oh well, I guess that's the price for living in an MTV age, and
neither side can be lambasted for knowing more about what kind of
g-strings J-Lo wears than about some useless piece of moor land
stuck on the posterior of Europe.
In Conclusion – Japanese and the World
Generally though, the experience left me with the same impressions
of rural Japanese people, I already kept. Initial curiosity about
my country, perhaps due to the shock of hearing the name, quickly
regresses into a one-way discussion whereby they offer previously
held assumptions while I attempt in vain to dispel and correct them.
At the end, we part with the same knowledge and assumptions retained
on both sides and we remain equally none the wiser.
This eternal battle of wits, misunderstandings and confusion is
the essence of the beauty and frustration of Japan. Perhaps the
best way to approach life in the Japanese countryside is to keep
distanced and take people's reactions with a pinch of salt. For
the most part you can satisfy yourself with discussions about sheep
and the brutality of the weather or whatever information has filtered
through the stiff, lower bow about your own home country.  |