Muddy shoes after a day at the festival

Three days and nights. Seven stages. Over 100 bands. Neither a decade-long economic stagnation nor twenty-four hour rain can stop the roaring success that is the Fuji Rock Festival. After its early years as a homeless drifter, Fuji Rock has consistently grown in popularity since it settled at the peaceful and scenic Naeba Ski Resort in Niigata Prefecture where Fuji Rock '03 was held July 25-27. For one weekend each year, this winter-oriented community awakens from its midsummer slumber to welcome music lovers from across the archipelago. Cars, buses and motorbikes snake their way up the small mountain roads from Echigo Yuzawa in such numbers that local governments are even willing to suspend "vital" construction roadwork during the Festival period. Unfortunately, two years after my initiation as a "Fujirocker", I'm beginning to wonder if Fuji Rock might not become a victim of its own success.

For the first time in my three trips to Fuji Rock, ticket sales were halted prior to the opening act. This meant that Saturday one-day and multiple-day tickets involving Saturday were no longer available from the preceding Tuesday onwards. As someone who is well aware how crowded the festival can get and prefers waiting less than twenty minutes for a toilet opening, this was great news. As someone whose friends forgot to buy tickets until that Wednesday, this was a rather disappointing development. I had attended both FujiRock '01 and '02 with good friends and the memories we share from discovering new artists, meeting festival friends and dancing until the wee hours will never fade. So it was with dampened enthusiasm and a little trepidation that I departed for my first solo festival.

Happily, I earned a reprieve from my potentially lonely experience immediately after disembarking at JR Echigo Yuzawa and lining up for the shuttle bus. Two foreign women studying Japanese in Hiroshima had just completed a 17-hour train ride using the seishun juuhachi kippu and were quite happy to get some answers prior to their initial Fuji Rock experience. We became camping neighbours and began each morning with a debriefing of the previous day's highlights. I also managed to hook up with a Fuji Rock '02 friend and her boyfriend. While they provided a constant challenge to punctual meeting times, they more than made up for it with energetic company and willingness to share mind-lubricating beverages!

As early as Friday morning, I understood why the organizers had suspended ticket sales. What were usually Saturday-sized crowds had somehow congregated by the second or third acts of the day on Friday. In previous years, the main Green Stage could usually be counted on to have significant open spaces for dancing or even playing Frisbee during the earlier acts. However, I was hard-pressed to stretch out my arms without touching the person next to me this year. These circumstances seemed to repeat themselves at the other six stages challenging the organizers' official capacity total of about 100,000 people.

What shocked me was not that this many people would come to see the likes of Macy Gray, UA, Coldplay, Björk, Iggy Pop and Elvis Costello, but that they could continue to find the cash in these apparently "lean" times. My personal expenses easily topped ¥70,000 which represents at least half of an average part-timer's monthly salary. They broke down like this: ¥29,000 two-day ticket, ¥2,500 camping fee, ¥6,500 for t-shirts, ¥24,000 roundtrip train ride from Kyoto and ¥10,000 for food and drinks. If you went for the full three days, throw in another ¥7,000 for a three-day ticket and if you actually drank more than one alcoholic beverage a day throw in a good ¥1,000-¥5,000 more. And if the high ticket demand is a reliable trend and not an aberration, then Fuji Rock is faced with two choices: limit future ticket sales or raise prices. Neither of these options is apt to please concert-goers, which quite possibly opens the door to cheaper competitors. Of course, I'm sure the concert's promoter, Smash go round, would rather face this type of dilemma than the one they faced before moving to Naeba, which was whether this type of festival is a viable business in Japan. I think that question has been emphatically answered by now.

Equally surprising was that the crowds I described took place in constant rain. From the moment I cleared the water amassed on my tarp Friday morning to the time I dragged myself back from the Orange Coat's "All Night Fuji" at 3 am, I looked like an overgrown mutant banana in my rain gear. While the mud-sliding that would usually take place at a North American venue failed to catch on - though some foreigners did their best to get people in the mood - the Japanese seemed to take it all in stride, saying shikata ga nai and sent their footwear to big Recycling Shop in the sky! Perhaps Macy Gray put it best when she said, "I'm glad I'm on stage and you're the ones standing in the rain. But you know what? Not many people would do that and I know that! Thank you." She then went on to compose a sing-a-long about not caring about the rain and not feeling any pain because we were having such a great time.

I guess that's the bottom line. Despite the rain, mud-caked feet and nighttime temperatures in the single digits all I saw were shiny, happy people! Fuji Rock clearly sets the stereotype of the overworked Japanese businessman on its head. And it does it in safest way, both for the fans and the environment. People waited for food and toilets in lines that stretched 20-30 people deep and required up to 30 minutes of waiting. Nobody pushed, shoved, yelled or otherwise caused any trouble for the security staff that I could see. This respect for other people also manifested itself within the campground where Fujirockers set up a small city. I saw numerous open tent flaps, coolers, tables, chairs and even various electronic gadgets lying about reflecting a level of trust that would make Western societies quite envious. Everybody truly seemed to take the Festival's theme of 'Independence', 'Cooperation' and 'Respect of nature' to heart. I saw a number of people carrying personal ashtrays around their neck in an effort to keep the ground clean. Compared to the occasional rioting at events such as Woodstock 99 and the trampling deaths at some European concerts, the Fuji Rock audiences seem as though they are attending a classical music recital. But don't let that decent behaviour fool you. When the beats start pumping and artists like Asian Dub Foundation encourage everyone to "break it down", these Japanese rocked with the best of them!

Besides the music, the best part of the Festival is meeting new people. Because of a large number of foreigners who attend that don't speak any Japanese, I think most Japanese feel their English isn't strong enough to strike up a conversation with us. However, once I showed the smallest Japanese ability, the floodgates would open and I would have a hard time keeping up with the barrage of questions directed my way. I liken Fuji Rock to people who play Ultimate Frisbee: open-minded, friendly and ready to have fun! It's something I wish I had known at my first Festival when I was too shy to start up random conversations!

So having spent a small fortune, lugged around a 10 kg tent by myself, stood in a constant drizzle and soaked my sandals in mud that I'm still trying to squeeze out, would I go back? There's only one thing to say to that: "Rock on!"

Interviews:

Name	Monika & Lina
Where are you from?	Poland & Columbia
Where are you currently living?	Hiroshima
How long have you been in Japan?	3.5 years & 10 months
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Underworld, UA & Massive Attack, UA
Any acts that have surprised you?	El Gran Silencio & Michael Franti and Spearhead
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	Much better! Perfectly organized and very safe!
Any last comments	I want to come back! & I want a bed.
Name	Zach & Chris
Where are you from?	Florida, U.S.A.
Where are you currently living?	Tokyo
How long have you been in Japan?	6 months
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Elvis, Mogwai and Sugar Ray(!)
Any acts that have surprised you?	Danko Jones was really funny! Michael Franti and Spearhead were pretty good.
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	Amazed at how patient Japanese are in line. They're also pretty cool crowd participants. It seems as though all the incomprehensible English in Japan has come together at this one place!
Any last comments	"Muddy Rocks!!"
Name	Chris
Where are you from?	Edmonton, Canada
Where are you currently living?	Tokyo
How long have you been in Japan?	2.5 years
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Godsmack, Anthrax
Any acts that have surprised you?	Guitar Wolf was terrible! The guy they picked out of the audience to play guitar sounded the same as the lead singer playing! Sugar Ray was pretty down to earth when I hung out with them last night.
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	No assholes!
Any last comments	(To me) I thought I recognized you – weren't you wearing the same shirt last year?
Name	Ai (right) and Ai's friend
Where are you from?	California
Where are you currently living?	Tokyo
How long have you been in Japan?	4.5 years
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Whole bunch of people, but mostly to soak up the atmosphere.
Any acts that have surprised you?	Just got here.
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	It's good.
Name	Fi
Where are you from?	England
Where are you currently living?	Tokyo
How long have you been in Japan?	5 years
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Coldplay, The Orb
Any acts that have surprised you?	Everything's a wonderful surprise!
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	It's really good.
Any last comments	"Hi mom!"
Name	William
Where are you from?	Toronto, Canada
Where are you currently living?	Sapporo
How long have you been in Japan?	5 years
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Primal Scream, Mogwai, Orb
Any acts that have surprised you?	Guitar Wolf and Sheena & The Rokkets were good!
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	Environment is really beautiful and clean.
Any last comments	Keep the rain away!
Name	Bibi & Zozo
Where are you from?	Petit village, France
Where are you currently living?	Takamatsu, Shikoku
How long have you been in Japan?	3 years
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Asian Dub Foundation, Underworld, UA, Ben Harper
Any acts that have surprised you?	Everything is great!!
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	The peace and good feeling are really nice. Artists that play two sets is a nice surprise.
Any last comments	Nihonjin saiko!!! Nihon arigato!
Name	Kate, Kristen Adela & The Boyz
Where are you from?	UK
Where are you currently living?	Niigata
How long have you been in Japan?	1 year
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Coldplay, Massive Attack, Primal Scream, Björk
Any acts that have surprised you?	Just got here
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	Very civilized. A little small compared to the big European festivals.
Any last comments	Keep it real! (The Boyz)
Name	Keith & Lynn
Where are you from?	Scotland
Where are you currently living?	Gunma-ken
How long have you been in Japan?	1 year
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Mogwai & Björk
Any acts that have surprised you?	Macy Gray put on a really good show!
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	Much bigger than expected. The toilets actually work! Cleaner.
Any last comments	With all the international bands it doesn't feel like Japan.
Name	Jove & Jay
Where are you from?	North Carolina & Texas, USA
Where are you currently living?	Niigata & Yamagata
How long have you been in Japan?	2 years
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Björk & anyone
Any acts that have surprised you?	Gocoo was really neat!
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	Very good! A little expensive though.
Any last comments	Nothing special.
Name	No names
Where are you from?	Not important
Where are you currently living?	Japan.
How long have you been in Japan?	Not important, ask me a good question.
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Björk, Iggy Pop
Any acts that have surprised you?	Counterfeit Beatles were terrible – they shouldn't be allowed to live. Gocoo and Thee Michelle Gun Elephant were very good.
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	I have to go.
Any last comments
	(Reporter's note: this chick was different. Agreed to be interviewed and then decided I wasn't asking the right questions so she left.)
Name	Teresa & Annabel
Where are you from?	Ireland & Canada
Where are you currently living?	Tokyo
How long have you been in Japan?	1 year
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Ben Harper, Björk, Spearhead
Any acts that have surprised you?	Baho was great! Asia Dub Foundation had awesome energy.
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	Very fun. Much cleaner.
Any last comments	Lots less hysteria than at other festivals.
Name	John
Where are you from?	Pennsylvania, USA
Where are you currently living?	Sendai
How long have you been in Japan?	1 year
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Bob Weir, Björk, Spearhead, Elvis Costello
Any acts that have surprised you?	All acts I saw were good!
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	Pleased with crowds. Rain seemed to take out their gas. Wish the losers at the Palace of Wonder would shut the f**k up!
Any last comments	Showers are too cold!
Name	Renata
Where are you from?	Poland
Where are you currently living?	Shizuoka
How long have you been in Japan?	2 years
Who did you want to see at FujiRock?	Underworld, Massive Attack, Björk
Any acts that have surprised you?	El Gran Silencio
How does this compare to other musical events you have attended?	Very safe.
Any last comments	Be yourself! Be free! Where the f**k are the hot showers?