The main sanctuary of the Ise Shrine

Tucked away in an isolated corner of Mie Prefecture in central Honshu, Ise Shrine hides deep within the woods of Shima Peninsula. For the magical and mysterious experience Ise offers, the lengthy journey is well worth a diversion from the beaten tourist track.

Ise is the most venerated shrine in Japan, representing the indigenous religion, Shinto, and the mythical origins of the Japanese people. Literally "the way of the gods", the fundamental belief of Shinto is that spirits (kami) pervade the natural world. This notion of kami appears in the creation myths of Japan, the Kojiki, compiled in 712AD. These stories tell of two divine beings, Izanagi and Izanami, who formed the islands of Japan and gave birth to a myriad of deities representing different natural phenomena. Among them was Amaterasu Omikami, the Sun goddess and patron saint of Ise Shrine. Her image symbolizes Japanese national identity and her shrine embodies the 'land of the rising sun'.

From the bus, I follow my fellow passengers through the massive stone torii (gate) and we clamber onto Uji Bridge. Here I linger to take in the smell of fresh cypress and be captivated by the crystal clear water below. These holy waters embrace the very essence of Japan, where the spirit of Amaterasu is believed to reside. The modest white robes of devoted pilgrims dot the shoreline, ritually cleansing their bodies in the traditional fashion. Envisioning my awkward splashes upsetting this peaceful landscape, I use the shrine's mini temizusha (holy water station) for my purifying hand scrub and mouth wash.

I take in my surroundings - vacant and serene. The enormous grounds unfold before my eyes and I try, but fail, to imagine any other place in Japan so open and unadorned. The silence is soothing, my ears being accustomed to the typical annoyances of most tourist attractions: noisy food stalls and gaudy souvenir vendors, hollering at sightseers. Ironically, I felt that by stepping through the first torii gate into the spiritual heart of the nation, I had actually left Japan behind.

The Emperor makes an annual trip to Ise, to ceremoniously rid the nation of its impurities. He is traditionally believed to be a direct descendent of Amaterasu in the long line of divine rulers, beginning with her own grandson Jinmu. Officially supreme, but actually a mere figurehead for the entire feudal period, the Emperor regained governing power during the Meiji Restoration of 1868, when a democratic society was created.

The architects of the new regime called upon the uniquely Japanese Shinto legends and practices in an attempt to stir patriotic enthusiasm and ease the transfer of power from the previous warlord caste who had ruled for over 250 years. The Emperor's image was raised to an almost cult-like adoration and massive structures named jingu, operated by the new Ministry of Religion, endorsed systematic worship of the Imperial family. These shrines were modeled on the original jingu: Ise. New state-controlled doctrines and rituals were introduced, and priests became state employees. When Japan lost the Second World War, the emperor publicly renounced his divinity and Shinto was de-centralized.

While Ise plays a vital role in shaping the modern era of Japan, these unpretentious grounds have an even more significant role of protecting the secrets of Japan's racial origins. The Kojiki tells us that Amaterasu gave her grandson, Jinmu, a gift of three imperial regalia to prepare him for the task of being Emperor. The three sacred treasures include a sword (symbolizing valor), a jewel (affection), and a mirror (honesty).

The sacred mirror is kept at Ise, wrapped in a bag, stored in a dark casket on a raised platform, and protected by four surrounding barriers. Inaccessible to the human eye, only 'divine' emperors are permitted to view the relic. When the bag decays over time, it is simply placed in new bag, to avoid defilement. Clues to the origin of the Japanese people may be inscribed on the back of the mysterious mirror.

Dubious individuals, who claim to have seen the mirror, agree that the horizontal writing on the bronze back is distinctly un-Japanese in style and resembles ancient Hebrew or Aramaic, spawning theories that connect the Japanese people to the ancient nomadic Jewish tribes who vanished from history after the Assyrian conquest in 722 BC. Scholars have found similarities in ancient Hebrew and Japanese ceremonies, priest apparel, the structure and layout of shrines, language used in ancient texts, and the three imperial regalia having been used as tokens of authority. It has also been argued that the Ise Shrine symbol, carved into the stone lamps surrounding the complex, is the Star of David.

I follow a cool and shady wooded path leading up to the Inner Shrine. Insulated from the din of traffic, only the soothing whispers of the cryptomeria trees disrupt the silence. I arrive at an impressive set of stone steps, but am not impressed by the news: no photography. However, upon climbing the stairs, one discovers that there is no view of the shrine to shoot. The walled complex is protected by vigilant security guards and nearby trees double as hidden cameras. Through a tiny veiled opening in the gates, it is possible to make out the Shrine's silhouette. On tippy-toes, the roof is barely visible.

While the original Ise shrine dates back to the 5th century, a glimpse at the roof reveals fresh wood. It is customary to rebuild Ise shrine and the adjoining Uji Bridge every twenty years, a process which serves to preserve traditional carpentry skills.

The shrine is built entirely of interlocking beams of wood, supported by posts that are fitted directly into the earth - no nails or cement are employed in the process. When the shrine is recreated, both the old and new stand side by side. Transporting the sacred mirror is a top-secret mission, executed in the darkness of night. Only when it is carefully concealed in the new shrine, the old structure is disassembled. White stones are laid to mark the location of the old building.

The secrets and mysteries of Ise playfully teased, but allowed wild imaginations to run free. Rejuvenated and refreshed, I left the Inner Shrine and headed into the woods to admire more of Amaterasu's beautiful backyard.

How to get there:

From Tokyo to Nagoya station:
Tokaido Shinkansen 'Hikari/Nozomi' Unreserved seat (1h. 45min.)
¥10,070, reserved seat: ¥10,980
From Nagoya to Ise-shi station:
1. Kintetsu Limited Express (1h. 20 min.)
¥ 2,690
2. JR express 'Mie rapid' (1h. 22 min.)
¥ 3,000

From Kyoto to Ise-shi station:
1. Kintetsu Limited Express* (2h. 13 min.)
¥ 3,520
*There are two trains per hour

From Osaka (Tsuruhashi station) to Ise-shi station:
1. Kintetsu Limited Express* (1h. 40 min.)
¥ 3,030
2. Kintestu Express (2h. 12 min.)
¥ 1,750
*There are four trains per hour

Useful Links:
International Shinto Foundation
The Shrine's official web site
Moshiach Online: Mystery of the Ten Lost Tribes