A Sunday afternoon in Harajuku: a sea of little goth bo-peeps, villainous superheroes, and grunge punk rockers showing off their carefully assembled costumes. A trip to Shibuya on the same day will unveil another brand of youth: scantily clad blonds with tanned skin scanning the store shelves for yet another Hello Kitty purse to add to their collection. Round the loop of the Yamanote line in Akihabara, men and women of all ages compare I-pods and cell phones, and root through the never-ending sprawl of electronics stores for the most fashionable gadgets at bargain prices.

Harajuku

Personal 'image' and obsessive shopping are deeply intertwined in Japan and define popular culture. Executives carry designer briefcases, Louis Vuitton handbags are glued to the forearms of most young women, and toddlers sport Nike runners and dyed hair.

Turn on the TV and don't be surprised to see Brad Pitt quenching his thirst with a brand name beverage, or David Beckham endorsing Vodafone while his wife Victoria dons Kanebo makeup for the billboards. Hair care products and estè (esthetic treatments) customized for men are becoming socially acceptable and fashionable. Even new fads like fruit vinegar, natto (fermented soybeans) face masks, and beer distilled from green peas, manage to find a niche in Japan's enormous retail market.

Following Chanel's lead in July 2004, cosmetics companies like Givenchy, Clarins, and Yves Saint Laurent have begun creating makeup lines exclusively for the Japanese market. Also honing in are the world's top fashion designers, who sell 1/3 of their products to the Japanese. The late 1990s saw falling land prices and foreign designers were quick to move in, build colossal stores, and start selling like crazy to meet the insatiable demands of the growing population of Japanese label-lovers. Even in the midst of a supposed 1990s recession, Louis Vuitton raised the prices of their products in Japan (1.41% higher than Parisian stores) and are still enjoying a steady 10% annual sales increase.

Make-up demonstration in Daimaru department store

How did this "accoutrement shopping" emerge as one of the most popular leisure activities in Japan? It all began with a kimono - the long, t-shape traditional robe - which emerged during the Heian period (794-1192). By the 1550s, the kimono material came to indicate social status: dowdy hemp or cotton for lower classes, and luscious layers of silk for the elite. In the Meiji period (1868-1912), following two and half centuries of isolation, the fashion-conscious upper classes plunged head first into western fashion. Suits, dresses, hats and heels replaced kimonos.

During the war years, 1931-1945, the kimonos were dismantled to make garments for the poverty-stricken population. The women took the fabric and created loose, frumpy trousers called monpe for themselves, and military-style uniforms called kokumin for the men. The American occupation after WWII brought western attire back into vogue again.

By the late 1950s, young people had become the uncontested arbiters of fashion and the market became inundated with inexpensive, youthful trends. The miniskirts of the 60s and the "surfer" look of the 70s warmed shoppers up for the real marathon: the affluent bubble years of the 1980s, when brand names took control of the media, and designer logos flooded the streets.

Shopping in Tokyo

Enjo kosai, the modern phenomenon of young school girls selling themselves to older richer men in exchange for gifts of brando (designer fashion accessories), rose dramatically during the 1990s. Many blame this moral decay of urban youth on society's obsession with materialism and consumerism.

Others point the finger at impossibly high educational standards and rigorous testing that suffocates most teenagers. While some parents reward diligent kids with brand name accessories or electronic goods, less intelligent students, or children of less wealthy parents receive nothing for their efforts. In a culture of fierce competition for material possessions, many young girls feel the need to turn to enjo kosai.

Costume play, or cosplay, also developed in the latter part of the 20th century. Some specialists view the emulation of manga anime cartoons as a way for teenagers to escape reality, vent pent-up emotions, or surpass the difficulty of making friends. Hiding behind masks or makeup, children have more confidence. With outfits costing anywhere from 20,000 to 100,000 yen, costume play displays yet another form of the shopping addiction that has been handed down by the previous generation.