Sarah Riches As a British expat living in Hiroshima
sitting down to write about Japanese culture as I have experienced
it, I considered writing about onsens, pachinko or Japanese-style
gardens. But I won`t. When I finally leave Japan to return to England,
what I will miss and what I will always remember is the extreme
friendliness that has been shown to me time and time again.
From compliments from strangers, shopkeepers closing up shop to
show me the way because they can`t explain it in English, to gifts
given to me by waitresses or people I pass on the street, I have
been shocked with such genuine kindness I have encountered.
I was waiting for a bus in Chiran, Kagoshima, surrounded by maps,
when a woman approached me and asked if I need a lift. I accepted,
and then she took me to her house and introduced me to her family
while she cooked me dinner. Later I met all of her neighbours, they
gave me a Japanese lesson and I took part in a photo-shoot from
her husband, who is a photographer. I stayed the night in their
art studio.
The next day they drove me around the entire prefecture, taking
me to Ebino Kogen and Kirishima Jingu. They insisted on buying me
several souvenirs, lunch and dinner; even taking me to the door
of my Youth Hostel on Sakurajima island by ferry. Of course I was
blown away with their kindess, and regularly keep in contact a year
later. Friends for life.
On another occasion, I had lost my mobile phone, I was sunburned
and exhausted, and looking forward to flying home to Hiroshima from
Miyazaki. On arrival at the airport at night, I was told my flight
was cancelled due to bad weather. I couldn`t speak Japanese, I couldn`t
contact anyone I knew, and I was working the next day. I didn`t
know what to do. Although the check-in staff couldn`t speak much
English, between them they spent hours discussing all possible means
of getting me home. They invited me to dinner, paid, took me to
their home, and drove me to the bus terminal.
There I was greeted by another airport staff member, who had only
just finished work. She was carrying a large bag full of journey
food, enough for several people. They wouldn`t accept payment. They
stood and waved me off, like old friends. They`d known me three
hours. So kind.
One Christmas, while in Fukuoka, a man struck up conversation
with me on the tube. He insisted on paying for my all-day tube ticket,
and accompanied me to several museums. He took me to dinner in an
expensive restaurant, paid for our taxi, and then we went our separate
ways. Another time, when I was lost in Fukuyama, Hiroshima, I asked
a Priest for directions. Unable to speak any English, he enlarged,
printed out, coloured in, guillotined and glued a giant map for
me!
Similarly, the quality of service in Japan has left me frequently
amazed. Staff are always welcoming and obliging in any shop, bar
or restaurant, and go out of their way to help customers to the
best of their ability, at no extra cost. Several times, when faced
with a Japanese menu and staff unable to speak English, I`ve almost
given up all hope of ordering a vegetarian meal. But I needn`t worry
- moments later I find a mobile phone thrust in my direction, and
gingerly taking it, I`ve ordered in English via a friend of a friend
of the waiters.
So helpful. So Japanese. Which other country would that happen
in? And I know it`s not just me who feels this way about Japan.
A friend of mine has been taken under the wing of her "Japanese
Mother" who will do anything for her. As well as cooking her
typical Japanese dishes, teaching her Japanese customs, and introducing
her to a wide circle of friends, she has taken her on several sightseeing
trips around the country. And when my friend needed to furnish her
new apartment, within days she had acquired a free mircowave, sofa
and fridge from her "Mother"; in fact, everything she
need to live in her new home.
These are only a few examples of unbelievable kindness I`ve been
shown, and there are so many more. It is an honour to live in Japan,
and my memories of it are so precious. I love how humour and generosity
cut across the language barrier and many cultural differences. I
will always look back on my time here with great fondness. These
are the little details often missed by the guide books, the bits
that make Japan what it is.  |
