Photo by metropol2
Rainbow Bridge at night, Tokyo.
Tokyo is quite unlike other cities in structural scope. It is initially aesthetically comforting, but the subtle, unwritten rules of the streets and buildings lead to some confusion and embarrassing situations.
In comparison, Australian cities are none too complex. It is by comparing the two (and indeed, other cities from Europe and the United States) I learned to enjoy Tokyo on more than face value, and become immersed in the experience of unplanned tourism.
The first time I arrived in Tokyo was later than I wanted. It would be about 8 p.m. by the time I arrived anywhere near Shinjuku, where I was staying. For a solo traveler and Japan first-timer, this prospect was daunting.
To make the process easier, Japanese airport staff were extremely helpful. Ordinarily one would either A: expect this because it is Japan, or B: expect it because they expect decent airport service in any country. Through subsequent visits to other countries, Japan has by far the friendliest service.
The friendly service enabled me to easily discover the fastest and most efficient way to get to Shinjuku – the Narita Express. Coming in at over AU$30, this is not a wise option for budget travelers, and future airport visits showed me many more economical options to take for Tokyo rail transport. Again though, for a first timer this express trip to the heart of Tokyo was a blessing.
Sitting on the luxurious train (by other standards) I was able to watch out the window for the duration of the trip. The first thing that came to me was the aspect of familiarity. If I were to ignore the Japanese conversation, alcoholic beverage service, and clean train, I could focus on the core impact of the scenery as I passed. It was strangely comforting.If I used just a tiny bit of imagination, the scenery could almost pass for Brisbane of an evening.
This feeling of security lasted, surprisingly, for a long time. I was able to navigate Shinjuku station with ease, and even connect to another line for a short trip to Nakano. In fact, I was undeterred even by boarding a train traveling in the complete opposite direction. The two minute services are so much more convenient than Australian, half-hourly quests to get to a station for a reasonable train time.
Eventually I arrived, and exited Nakano station. Then, the uneasiness set in. It was past 8 p.m., I was carrying two large pieces of luggage, and I had no idea where to go. Be prepared for the streets of Tokyo to look nothing like you imagined they would when you plotted out your route safely at home on a map.
This led to me getting lost. Speaking no Japanese, I inquired about the location of my accommodation to a man sitting inside a building – I had to rap on the glass outside to get his attention. I was feeling extremely embarrassed — yet he was very friendly, despite having trouble examining my poorly Xeroxed instructions.
Still, he gave me piece of mind that I was in the correct place, and if I were to see him again, a fat wad of currency would be heading his way. Don't bother pointing out that “tipping” isn't customary, he deserves it. I did get my bearings, and found the accommodation.
Later on, the street adventure led me to interesting thoughts. It seems in Tokyo you can go anywhere, do anything. Students were studying pastry cooking in a basement of some building in some back alley somewhere. Boggling. Businessmen were seen in the most unusual of places.
In fact, the most memorable situation I found myself in was at a completely unknown bar in Asakusa. How anyone could ever find such a place is unbelievable, but such is the nature of Tokyo – go anywhere, do anything.
With enough space for perhaps five to six people in the entire establishment, I found myself drinking heavily, at midnight, with three old businessmen in a Mexican-themed Japanese bar. Unusually brilliant. The two businessmen were intoxicated and the bartender even more so. Singing and dancing was the primary activity, combined with the unspoken “who can drink the most Coronas” contest.
I am making a point here. Most of Tokyo accepts all, at all times. In Brisbane, it seems to be clear that suited businessmen are not typically in a randomly themed bar. Students study at clearly labeled institutions. When walking from point A to point B, you feel like you are trespassing if you had to walk through a district typically known for drugs and “alternative” venues.
As a gaijin trying to become accepted, and form a profound understanding with the way Japan works, I was too eager in a few circumstances. Being forcibly ejected from an area after forgetting to take my shoes off, the embarrassment was strong, and I feel as if I had failed Japan as a whole. Trying may be the quickest step towards failure, but failure is the best step towards gaining experience so one can eventually feel right at home.
Tokyo mixes this familiar, homely feeling one gets with the accessibility never expected. On face value you can feel comfortable, but explore with deeper scrutiny and you will find an experience like none other. I eventually became far more accustomed to the city, and learned enough Japanese to get by.
This is made infinitely easier by the city itself, and the streets leading to infinity. Five-star service in one of the millions of back alley convenience stores is positive reinforcement — even needed — after the initial problems one is sure to find themselves in. Exploration is the most important part of understanding, and for exploration there is no greater city than Tokyo. 